Let's Talk Tomato

Although we Americans eat more than 16 pounds of fresh tomatoes a year, we consume the fresh equivalent of 79 pounds in processed tomatoes, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

Soaring processed tomato consumption is due to "the pizza, pasta and salsa revolution" that began in the '80s, says the USDA.

Whether fresh or canned, tomatoes are regarded as part of a healthy diet because they have the carotenes that convert to vitamin A and vitamin C.

Experts also have found that men who eat tomatoes cooked in olive oil are less likely to develop prostate cancer.

It has to do with lycopene -- the vitamin-like compound that makes tomatoes red, according to the American Dietetic Association. The theory is that cooking tomatoes in olive oil releases the lycopene and makes for better intestinal absorption than just eating tomatoes or drinking tomato juice alone.

Keep in mind that, with all of its good properties, olive oil is still all fat. There is no suggested ratio of tomatoes to oil, other than to use good sense.

Be sure to read labels when you buy sauces and processed tomatoes. Some can have more ingredients than you want or need, especially if you're watching fat and sodium intake.

What's in a can

The tomatoes you get in a can aren't summer surplus. They're specially developed produce designed to be firm, with less water and more pulp. California grows 90 percent of the processed tomatoes eaten by Americans and accounts for half the world's supply.

Planting starts in late January and continues through the middle of May, with harvesting from early July through mid-October. For about 100 days straight, red, ripe tomatoes flow from the fields to the canners within hours of picking.

Although there are 200 varieties of processing tomatoes, labels generally don't specify what kind is in the can. Some are grown to extend the growing/harvesting season. Others provide different characteristics: color, aroma, flavor, soluble solids or meatiness and viscosity.

The pear or Italian-type tomatoes are often canned because they peel easily in a steam process. The best are processed whole, with the rest diced, crushed, pureed or turned into paste.

The biggest users of diced tomatoes are commercial salsa makers, who buy them by the drum.

You may see a lot of different tomato labels at the supermarket. In addition to the major brands, sometimes a distributor or large grocery chain will contract with a processor for a private label. These labels account for a lot of regional brand names that appear on the shelves.

Canned tomatoes can be more nutritious than fresh because they're picked red and ripe and put through high-technology processing that retains all the goodness.

And on the dry side

The Roma tomato, which is gaining acceptance in its fresh form, is the darling of dried tomatoes. It's a meaty tomato developed in Italy, which also pioneered dried tomatoes in olive oil. It takes 17 pounds of fresh tomatoes to end up with one pound dry.

Dried tomatoes are subjected to the least processing. Most hydrators only wash them, halve them and dry them. Those are the darkest. Bright red dried tomatoes have been treated with sulfur dioxide, which only enhances the color.

Remember, with dried tomatoes you're buying flavor -- intense flavor -- few calories and no fat, unless they're bottled in olive oil.

Stovetop Casserole

Forget the box mixes with the unpronounceable ingredients. With a can of whole tomatoes, a pound of meat and a box of pasta, you can make your own stovetop casserole. Here's one that's a change from hamburger. The spinach gives it color and intense flavor, but you can substitute green beans or other vegetables as you please.

1 pound Italian-style turkey sausage, cut into bite-sized pieces

1 pound three-color corkscrew pasta cooked according to instructions on package

1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, cut slightly, with liquid

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 cups chopped bell pepper

2 cups onion

2 garlic cloves

2 cups mushrooms

2 cups spinach, washed and shredded, or 1 box frozen chopped spinach, thawed

4 ounces extra-sharp cheddar cheese, shredded

In a large casserole dish that can take the heat from the range, heat the olive oil and brown the sausage until cooked through. Add peppers and onions, garlic and mushrooms. Cook until slightly wilted. Add tomatoes and spinach. Stir until fresh spinach is wilted and bright in color. Stir in cheese, which will melt quickly. Add cooked pasta. Serve.

Makes six hearty servings, each containing approximately 566 calories, 31 grams protein, 18 grams fat and 69 grams carbohydrates.

Chunky Skillet Spaghetti

This sauce literally takes 20 minutes -- or about the time it takes to boil water and cook the spaghetti you serve under it.

8 ounces thin spaghetti

1-2 tablespoons olive oil

1 bell pepper, diced, approximately 1 cup

1 medium onion, diced, approximately 1 cup

1 small zucchini, diced, approximately 1 cup

1 clove garlic, chopped

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1 tablespoon basil

1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes (if you use tomatoes with basil, you need not add more basil)

4 tablespoons Parmesan or Romano cheese

Put on a pot of boiling water for spaghetti and cook according to package directions.

Heat oil and lightly saute pepper and onion. Add garlic and zucchini; cook a little more. Add tomatoes and parsley. Cook just until tomatoes are hot and spaghetti is ready to serve.

Divide spaghetti and sauce over four plates (about one cup of spaghetti and one cup of sauce per serving). Sprinkle a tablespoon of fresh, coarsely grated Parmesan or Romano cheese over each plate.

Each serving contains approximately 366 calories, 12 grams protein, 10 grams fat and 57 grams carbohydrates.

Classic Tomato Sauce

This is alchemy in a pot: The longer you cook it, the darker in color, thicker in consistency and deeper in flavor it gets. It's done when you think it's ready. It's also versatile. Use oregano or thyme instead of basil. Add mushrooms if you like, zucchini or celery.

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 cups chopped onions

1 bell pepper, chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

2 28-ounce cans crushed tomatoes

1 35-ounce can whole, peeled, Italian-style tomatoes, with liquid

1-2 tablespoons dried basil

1-2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1 large bay leaf

Saute onion and pepper in olive oil. Add garlic and cook briefly. Add tomatoes and herbs. Cook over high heat until it begins to bubble, turn to low and let simmer, uncovered, for at least an hour.

Serve over pasta or spread on crusty Italian bread, sprinkle with cheese and eat. Or use in your favorite recipe. Makes two quarts (eight cups).

A half-cup serving of the basic sauce contains approximately 71 calories, 3 grams protein, 2 grams fat and 12 grams carbohydrates.